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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.